Describe observations, ask the cutter to diagnose them, and record the agreed action. Do not try to become a pattern cutter during a rushed appointment.
Before the appointment
- Bring the shirt and shoes intended for the suit.
- Bring any reference garment already discussed.
- Restate which preferences are fixed and which are negotiable.
- Ask permission for consistent front, back and side photographs.
- Ask who will explain the fit and authorize changes.
Using the intended accompanying garments and a preferred reference item is consistent with Proper Cloth’s published fitting preparation advice. (propercloth.com)
At the unfinished or structural fitting
Ask the fitter to review:
- Shoulder width and slope.
- Collar contact and the garment’s balance in your normal stance.
- Chest and waist room.
- Sleeve position and movement.
- Jacket length and intended silhouette.
- Trouser waist position, rise, seat and thigh room.
Prioritize these before cosmetic details. Proper Cloth notes that changing jacket shoulder width is not straightforward because it affects other parts of the garment; its guidance also shows that different shoulder-slope problems can require different remedies. (propercloth.com)
Do not accept a generic promise that every structural problem can be fixed cheaply after you return home.
At the trouser fitting
Sit, stand and walk normally. Observe discomfort, tension around the fly, pocket openings and whether the legs settle after sitting. Proper Cloth’s trouser guidance identifies hip tightness and restricted lower-leg drape as issues worth assessing; these observations should lead to a fitter’s diagnosis, not an automatic instruction to shorten or taper. (propercloth.com)
What should the fitting log look like?
| Observation | Agreed action | Responsible person | Recheck date | Status |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Left sleeve appears longer in normal stance | Fitter to reassess and specify correction | ___ | ___ | Open |
| Discomfort when seated | Review trouser rise, seat and available room | ___ | ___ | Open |
| Silhouette differs from approved reference | Confirm whether construction can be adjusted | ___ | ___ | Open |
These are illustrative entries, not diagnoses.
Send the log after each appointment and ask the tailor to acknowledge it. Distinguish required correction, buyer-requested style change and accepted characteristic so that later disagreements do not depend on memory.
At the final fitting
Recheck every open item before approving completion. Inspect lining, seams, closures, pockets, buttons and the agreed details. Confirm that both jacket and trousers correspond to the order.
Do not let garment collection become automatic approval of a second commission. If an issue remains, record it and agree the next action before leaving.